Madras Cafe (82 Howard St., Glasgow G1 4EE) is the third Curry House to occupy this locus. Mama’s Rasoi, a favourite venue of my late Mother, became Dawaat back in 2014, it didn’t last. Madras Cafe appeared last year, due to all the restrictions of Lockdown it has taken Hector a year to get here.
Hector took refuge from the impending rain storm just after 13.30. A family of four and a solo diner were in situ, the latter with a spacious window seat. Hector was given a smaller table at the head of the room, from there, all could be observed. Madras Cafe is very much an – Indian Restaurant – as the clientele confirmed. I watched the family get stuck into Dozas after they had finished their Mains.
The young waiter brought the Menu complete with lunchtime (£6.50) and pre-theatre (£9.95) options. The Lunch Menu clearly says Monday to Friday, so maybe a change of policy? Having studied the online Menu, – something in Fish – is what I had in mind. Soupy Curry is typical of that served here under the previous incarnations, if I can tolerate this at Banana Leaf then why not here? The abundance of – Peppers and Chicken – in many of the Meat alternatives limited the choice. Lamb Bhuna (£10.95) and Lamb Rogan Josh (£11.95) could hopefully avoid the – dreaded Ballast.
The young waiter had already supplied a litre bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.75) when I started my spiel. He deferred to his senior who brought the pad.
I’m trying to avoid both Capsicum and Chicken.
The above two Lamb Dishes were mentioned, so no flexibility then. I almost asked if Lamb Chettinad was possible, however, he led me to the Sea Bass Molillee (£15.00).
How thick is the sauce? – I had to ask, and I couldn’t bring myself to say – Masala.
I was assured it was – quite rich – and so took the plunge. Fried Rice with Jeera (£3.20) would accompany.
A Curry with – Coconut Milk – not the Hector norm. Still, I was happy to end up here, what could possibly follow Waris’ (Deira Lahore) wonderful Lahori creation midweek?
Three more diners entered. I heard them ask for a – Drinks Menu – but could not make out the response, they took soft drinks in the end. The Bar has an array of bottled spirits, and presumably liqueurs. There are no Bier taps.
I became aware of the time passing, at least I was not being soaked as were the occasional passers by. Madras Cafe is located behind the St. Enoch’s Centre, an area of limited footfall despite being metres from the riverside. The lack of activity along the banks of the River Clyde in the city centre still puzzles. Why is nothing happening here?
It was 14.15 when the Order arrived.
That looks good – was my reaction as the Curry was placed on the table.
The Jeera Rice portion was just enough, and certainly not excessive. I knew I should be able to manage this. I could not see much on the way of Cumin Seeds.
Sea Bass Molillee
The platter seemed huge, and the Fish occupied most of it. The Sea Bass may been deliberately broken into four pieces. As I carefully decanted the bits, so I became fully aware of just how much Fish was here. It is always difficult to judge the actual quantity of the Flaked Fish as served in a typical Bradford Fish Karahi. As I started breaking up the quarters, I could tell that this was going to be a lot of eating.
The yellow, pepper-speckled, creamy, Masala was not excessive, and the viscosity impressed. This was not a Soupy Curry, the ratio of – Meat to Masala – was favourable. Green Beans and bits of something – red – were immediately prominent. Tomato, I deduced eventually, not Carrots, and not …
The Spice Level was moderate initially, but built. When I bit into a supposedly Green Bean and got a huge – kick – I realised some were Green Chillies. No problems with the Spice Level then, and for some I would suggest – take care! There was no sense of the taste of Coconut in the Masala. Not that I mind Coconut, but it does lead to Sweet Curry, this was not. I would upgrade the waiter’s – quite rich – to – seriously rich. This is not the style of Curry that Hector would normally order. Nor did the Masala have the South Indian Smokey Flavour that I have come to associate with Banana Leaf. It was clear that Marg would love this.
Sea Bass is not something I encounter often. This piece of Fish was cooked to perfection and far from the rubbery nonsense that too many venues dish out. The Flavour of the Fish was apparent and it retained a distinct sense of moistness throughout the period of eating.
One thing was missing, where was the Cumin blast from the Rice?
It took fully twenty five minutes to eat this Curry. The young waiter, who had witnessed my photographing the Menu and all thereafter, came over to ask if I was enjoying the food. I gestured to my almost empty plate.
I hope you give us a good review – I believe I heard though his face mask. Time to give the Calling Card, I saw it being taken to the hatch at the kitchen.
Suddenly, there was a blast of Cumin. One of the few seeds present had dislodged itself from wherever. I could have had more of this.
I asked for – The Bill – instead, a chap resplendent in Chef’s uniform stood beside me, beaming, this was Shabu, Mein Host. He confirmed their opening during Lockdown had been a far from ideal time to launch a new business. As I talked Shabu through the Curry-Heute website on the still reliable Oppo, he realised that he knew me from his time at KoolBa. I would imagine this may have been from the short-lived Union Street branch, Candleriggs survives. Shabu showed me his Recipe Book, of which he is clearly proud. I assured him that I have more than enough Curry Recipe Books. Why do I make so few Dishes from them?
The Bill
£15.57 This was after a 30% discount. Thanks very much. Once again, being Hector has its privileges, occasionally.
The Aftermath
There was the promise of a return visit – My wife will love the Sea Bass Molillee. Another reason is to try the rare – Malabar Paratha – the elusive white Paratha which Hector adores.
Some updates:
Banana Leaf, the well established South Indian Curry Cafe is temporarily closed. Phoning them last week, I was told that they are closed for two weeks and are moving premises. To where, their spokesman did not say.
On the journey home I noticed that Pedlar and Spice is no more.
Madras Cafe – Menu extracts
