The Hector does turn up in some out of the way places. The trek to Kaarst from Düsseldorf via Neuss may seem arduous, but having now done it twice, the Hector is getting the hang of it.
When Marg and Hector visited Rice & Spice (Badeniastraße13, 41564 Kaarst, Deutschland) last year, it was immediately apparent that this was a special venue in Deutschland. There are damn few venues serving authentic Lahori / Punjabi fayre, despite what they advertise.
Arriving at 12.40, Ahmed was front of house to greet. He offered me the choice of an inside table, or in the enclosed patio to the rear. I chose the window table at the door. All other diners chose to sit outside, additionally on the pavement out front.
Whilst the prices had not changed since visit #1, the menu had been reprinted. I had already decided upon Lamm Achari (€24.99), though did marvel at the extent of the Kofta options.
It took Ahmed a few minutes to recognise me. Having done so, he went to the counter to fetch the Calling Card. The latest version had to issued. From somewhere, his lady the Chef appeared.
Any ! – I was able exclaim.
Thus the Hector was established.
How spicy should it be?
Hot, but not crazy.
*
Sparkling Water (€3.00 / €6.00) was ordered, this was the €3.00 glass.
A complex Salad was presented. Featuring apple, grapes, tomato, cucumber, carrot, lettuce, pomegranate seeds – and a wee kick – this was totally refreshing. An amuse bouche before the main event.
An impressive array of Dips and Sundry items were then set before me. The pot of Pickled Chillies and Olives stood out. In the past I have been known to add Lime Pickle, when already on the table, to rescue a bland Curry. Today, having ordered the Achari, surely no need?
Chaps sitting out the back had to be looked after. A series of – pings – brought Ahmed back to the counter. Wolt – the food delivery service in full use. One assumes the good people of Neuss have discovered Rice & Spice.
Ahmed brought the mains. Last year, we tried to go without Rice, but Ahmed insisted we have it, all part of the package anyway. The Pulao Mutter is not to be missed, tasty Rice in its own right, and the Peas provide a degree of Diversity. Well Seasoned and with an aromatic air, there was an impressive sense of Big Flavours from the Rice alone. For once in Europe, a sensibly sized portion such that plates might be wiped clean.
A Roti, needlessly cut into four, was also part of – the meal. What is it with Wholemeal Flour, has White Chapatti Flour doubled in price? The Hector is becoming haunted by this lesser ingredient.
I would eat one quarter, primarily for dipping and mopping up.
*
Lamm Achari
Seven pieces of Meat, a couple on-the-bone, did look a bit on the miserly side. Once decanted, I accepted there was a plateful, should I really need more than this?
The Masala, with the Oil separating, had that special sheen that effuses quality. The first dip was a definite – wow! – moment. Chefs who know the secret of producing a blend of Spices that can create these Flavours will always be celebrated in Curry-Heute. Yet, the Flavours took me by surprise. Where was the Pickle?
As with last month at Balti BLVD (Crawley), the Achari was not in your face with one Flavour prominent. There is another Achari? Research required *!
The non-Pickle intensity of Flavour today took me towards Hector’s favourite Masala, the much loved Desi Qorma.
A variation on the customary question:
If you want anything else…
Your Masala is beautiful – I had to declare.
The quantity of Meat had the brain considering that, if there was a fellow diner, would it be possible to have an isolated extra portion of Curry to share, as became the norm at the much missed The India Club at Hotel Strand Continental (London).
The Lamb gave off its big Meaty Blast of Flavour. Needless to say, in this bewildering Curry, the Seasoning and Spice Level were well pitched.
Time to experiment. I added some of the Pickled Chillies and Olives, if anything more bulk. The Hector seeks Ballast? The added Pickle brought the Masala closer to Mainstream Achari. This Curry did not need the additives.
The Meat was being eked out, until I decided that this really was enough. It became a matter of not wanting the pleasure to end, evoking my early visits to The Village (Glasgow), when I would tell Mr. Baig, Mein Host, that it was sad to leave.
For every Curry I eat which is just – Curry – and I have to restrain myself from reporting it as – monotonous, there is the one time in possibly fifty, when one encounters a Curry as special as this.
There’s more.
Last year, Ahmed promised us Chai. I managed to secure one without milk. Today too late, and it felt impolite to decline this final component of – the package.
Milky Tea, except this was different, else I would have abandoned it. Also, I realised that spending another ten minutes here would optimise my departure from Kaarst.
Evaporated milk in tea, not had this since sailing down the east coast of South America back in the summer of ‘69. Then I found it repulsive, a catalyst to abandoning first milk, and eventually sugar, in tea. As a one off, I enjoyed this Chai, Cardamom and a Nuttiness came across.
Next time, I shall anticipate and be prepared.
Two entries only, but such is the quality here, Rice & Spice deserves its own dedicated page in Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses..
The Bill
€27.99, plus an acceptable 10%, then €1.00 for using the card machine. (£27.55)
The Aftermath
Ahmed drew my attention to the cherry blossom trees, a recent addition.
Final words with Ahmed. He described the Curry as having – Achari Masala, not pickle.
On comparing today’s Masala to a Desi Qorma, Ahmed said they will add – Korma / Qurma to their menu in a few months.
The traditional one.
But which one did he mean?
* Research reveals a difference between Pickle-led Achari and Spice-led Achari. Tarka – the cooking method of frying Spices in Oil, appears to raise a third version of Achari. The Hector now has to try and create the latter by frying Mustard Seed, Nigella, Fennel and Cumin Seeds, and not just chucking in the Lime Pickle.
This also means that the next time I encounter a Tarka Daal, recognition will be given to the fact that this refers to the Onions which have been fried in Oil, not the Onions themselves.
Bus 862 from the Kaarst ring road, departs hourly to D-Belsenplatz, the very spot I was due to meet up with Dr. Stan on the western extremity of Düsseldorf. Serendipity.