It is four years since my last visit to Royal Punjab (Venloer Str. 4, 50672 Köln, Deutschland), South Indian Cuisine has been a distraction in the interim. Today a Fish Curry, after all I know what is planned in the coming days, and avoiding Lamb Curry will not be a viable option.
Arriving at 13.000. Aklaq, Mein Host, was sitting in his spot in the otherwise empty restaurant. There were diners outside, Curry on the pavement, I don’t get it.
As I photographed the current menu, Ashlaq asked:
You come from Belgium?
Was this his way of acknowledging a vague air of recognition?
I put him right, though België is on the itinerary for this trip.
Fish Kalkata (€18.90) was the first Curry I had at Royal Pubjab, back in 2017. A Fish Curry with Aubergine and Potato, if this does not match my current mood then what can? It also follows on quite elegantly from the conclusion reached in last week’s home-cooked Patia.
As is generally the norm in mainland Europe, Rice is inclusive.
A 0.4l glass of delightfully chilled Sparkling Water (€3.80) would keep me amused whilst Chef got to work.
As long this persists, Curry-Heute will keep asking – why so much Rice?
A Hector cannot eat this quantity, though as Colin demonstrated recently at Rustom Restaurant (Edinburgh), some can.
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I decanted more Rice than I knew I would manage, always the optimist. Cumin Seeds were mixed through the Rice, how much would one pay for this welcomed addition back home?
Fish Kalkata
The aroma of the South was apparent as I arranged the Fish, Vegetables and Masala over the Basmati. This small karahi was packed. Topped with chunky Ginger Strips and a sprinkling of Coriander Leaves, the Masala looked to be suitably viscous. Flecks of Mustard/Onion Seeds were prominent in the Masala. In time, Coriander Stems would be encountered, Curry Leaves also. No Whole Spices, Curry Leaves aside, this was very much a Restaurant Curry.
The Masala was powerful, well Seasoned at a medium Spice Level. There were Big Flavours emanating from this sauce.
Three large pieces of Fish, plus a tiddler, formed the business end of the Curry. Aubergine, not everyone’s favourite for being typically encountered in its slimy form, today had not reached that depth. The skin seemed to have absorbed the Flavour of the Masala rather than the flesh. The Potatoes too had absorbed Flavour, the Seasoning here was a standout. The Fish itself tasted – fishy – never to be taken for granted. Soft Fish, nothing rubbery here, alas the Seasoning was decidedly lower.
Biting into a Curry Leaf released a smokey blast. This complemented the moderately Spiced Masala’s own Flavours.
Very tasty – was my reply to the customary question.
Back to the Potato, is any Curry complete without some element of Aloo?
Rice became questionable as the optimum accompaniment to this Curry. The powerful Flavours from the Masala were being filtered by the Rice. This highlights the fundamental issue of inclusive Rice: who is going to order Bread? Not the solo diner.
Meat & Masala can sometimes be seen as somewhat one dimensional, or should that be two? Fish and two Vegetables certainly adds the extra dimension. Why has it taken the Hector sixty-plus years to realise that this could be the ultimate combination?
The Bill
€22.70 (£19.47)
The Aftermath
With the ice broken earlier, I was keen to show Akhlaq the dedicated page for Royal Punjab which was put up after my last visit, and issue the updated Calling Card. He read each word carefully, then acknowledged his son from years back.
I was informed that there is another branch of Royal Punjab at Wermelskirchen between Köln and Wuppertal. The Hector does turn up in some out of the way places, so who knows?
For the remainder of the afternoon, there was a lovely South Indian afterglow on the palate. Maybe unexpected in a Punjabi restaurant, but do study the length of the menu.
