Glasgow – Madras Cafe – More Molillee

Posted on July 24, 2021 by Hector

A Saturday afternoon in the erstwhile Curry Capital, Hector had Kofta Anda at Sheerin Palace in mind. When Marg announced she was free, the opperchancity to keep a promise was realised. Sea Bass Molillee as served at Madras Cafe (82 Howard St., Glasgow G1 4EE) impressed earlier this month, very much a Marg Curry. There was also a desire to establish any flexibility in the comparatively minimalist menu.

We arrived at 14.15 and were given a window table. A large bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.75) was quickly arranged, served cold on this hot summer’s day. The same waiter would serve us throughout our visit. Lamb Punjabi (£10.95) is potentially the most interesting Curry in the Scotland’s Favourites section of the Menu, but – cooked with chunky mixed peppers – is an absolute turn off.

Lamb Rogan Josh (£11.95) is a customary fallback when dining at a Mainstream Restaurant. I asked that – no Peppers – be added, as in – I don’t want to see any. This was accepted, not an issue. So why, when I gave my spiel last time, was I led straight to the Fish? Had that not occurred, then I would not have been here today to let Marg experience the impressive Sea Bass Molillee (£15.00).

Marg accepted that she would need Rice, she opted for Coconut Rice (£3.50), Fried Rice with Jeera (£3.20) once again for Hector. Another reason for the speedy return was to sample the elusive – White Paratha – or Malabar Paratha (£2.95) – as is written.

Moments after the Order was placed, Spiced Onions and two Poppadoms were brought to the table. Excellent, and totally in keeping with another section of The Curry-Heute Campaign, just bring them to the table, no fuss, no charge. Spicy, tasty Onions, much appreciated.

Once again, the Cumin, if any, had been added sparingly to the Jeera Rice. Possibly the same Rice had Coconut sprinkled over it to satisfy the moniker. That we had ordered a Rice portion each was justified, certainly not enough to share.

The Malabar Paratha looked glorious, and was easily the largest of this type encountered to date. The magical swirl was present, the Flavour from the white flour was so much better than the standard Wholemeal Paratha. This was nearly ticking all of Hector’s boxes, however, there was a firmness that puzzled. Soft and spongy is how I have enjoyed these before, today’s was not like that. Close to the Hector idyll, not quite there, but still way better than a Wholemeal Paratha.

Lamb Rogan Josh

Topped with a sprinkling of Coriander, this looked like a Classic Curry. The Masala had a suitable viscosity and was not excessive. I counted the Meat on the plate, ten large pieces, each could be halved, a decent portion justifying the price.

When Curry is served in a soup plate what does one do with the Rice? Arranging the Meat and Masala on top of the Rice is the custom, this looks a bit weird. It means stirring Rice into the Curry as one eats, but it does leave the exposed parts for dipping the Bread.

The Lamb was super-soft, quality Meat. The Menu describes – intense heat – really? The Spice Level was far from testing, the seasoning was decidedly – low. The Tomato in the base sauce came across momentarily. Where was the Cumin blast from the Rice? That never happened, no seeds? This was Mainstream Curry, nothing distinctive, nothing dramatic. Did I enjoy it? Well, of course, but this does go a long way to confirming that Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses are in a different league.

Sea Bass Molillee

If anything this was an even larger portion than I was served last time. Two whole Fish sat smothered in the yellow, creamy, Masala, Marg’s Curry idyll. I watched Marg set aside two large, whole Green Chillies, these crossed the table. One therefore had the choice of eating this Curry with the full Chilli blast as I had recently done, else one could take it easy.

On accepting that the portion would defeat her, Marg left one Fish untouched, this would go home.

Lovely, flaky fish, surrounded in a sea of creamy, garlic, ginger sauce. I enjoyed the spicy kick which accompanied the dish, but avoided the many chillies. The Coconut Rice was a good addition. I ate a good half, looking forward to eating the rest at home.

(She’ll be lucky.)

The Bill

£40.65 No discount today, there is a scheme advertised on each table whereby one can save £5.00 on future visits. I didn’t examine this further.  Did I actually receive Jeera Rice?

The Aftermath

Chef Shabu did make an appearance during our visit to bid farewell to a couple, our waiter did chat with us briefly. Apparently a special Indian flour is used to make the Malabar Paratha. There is a video on a well known social medium showing Chef Shabu in action, it gives away no secrets.

Chicken Chettinad (£10.95) is on the Menu. I asked if Fish Chettinad could be served. Apparently it can be provided. I have missed Banana Leaf who serve a Creamy interpretation of Fish Chettinad. If anyone knows where in Partick they are moving to, please advise.

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Renfrew – Green Gates – On the way to the Peak of Excellence

Posted on July 17, 2021 by Hector

On collecting Hector at Glasgow Airport, Marg announced she had made a booking for 20.30 at Green Gates (65 Ferry Rd, Renfrew PA4 8SH). One day, this will be on the route back to Clydebank, alas, the new river crossing is not due to be completed until 2024. By now, I thought I would be considering Green Gates as a – local – Curry House.

Once again, we were allocated the small table at the window. One day we’ll get to see the interior seating area, to be fair, it was busy. Within the hour, Green Gates would be empty then closed before the throng in the nearby pub could be tempted in by late night munchies. Gone are the days of Curry Houses being opened later than t’pub.

Green Gates’ Menu is not vast. To date I’ve had the Lamb Shank, Aloo Gobi, Mixed Vegetable and Lamb Rogan Josh, whilst Marg has had Butter Chicken, twice. None of the Fish Dishes appealed, too tame, whilst the description of the Karahi suggests I shouldn’t go there. Bhoona, Dhansak and Balti stood out in the – Old Favourites. Chickpeas I can tolerate, enjoy even, when part of a melange, so Lamb Balti (£10.95) for Hector and Chicken Chasni (£9.95) for Marg. Marg would have her usual Chapatti (£1.30), Mushroom Rice (£3.25) for Hector. It was good to see sensibly priced Rice after London.

The waitress asked if we were having Starters. £6.95 for Seekh Kebab? Either this is a meal or they’re having a laugh. No Starters. The request for – no Peppers – was duly recorded. Only a small bottle of Sparkling Water (£1.95) was available, Marg had this, Hector took the plunge and ordered a pint of lager (£3.95). Saturday night, let’s go wild.

On our first visit, we were presented with a Soupçon of Spicy Tomato Soup, tonight it was a Spinach Soup. Creamy, tasty, but sadly – tepid. It did warm up the taste-buds.

The limitations of the tiny table were foiled as the waiter tried to assemble the Order. I took what I considered to be enough Mushroom Rice and passed the remainder to Marg.

The Chapatti was not as large as served in our usual haunts on Glasgow’s Southside, Marg welcomed the Rice.

Lamb Balti

The Chickpeas were prominent in the karahi. As I decanted the Lamb and Chickpeas so the abundant Onions also became apparent. Finely chopped Onions are fine, here were the Big Blobs of half-cooked Onions for which Marg is usually the magnet. I could cope, and congratulated myself for ensuring the – no Peppers – that could have been disastrous.

The Meat count just reached double figures, the ratio of solids to Masala was favourable, this was Curry, not Soup. Tiny bits of orange (Carrots?) marked the presence of the promised – ground pickle. The fresh Mushrooms in the Rice added further Diversity, this meal had great potential.

The Spice Level was OK, not demanding, one Green Chilli sat proudly. The Seasoning appeared to vary, but when the Pickle kicked in, all the Flavours one could want were released. This was one very tasty Curry, as much Achari as Balti.

Biting into the biggest of Black Cardamoms was a bit of a shock. A stray piece of something – green – was set aside. If the – Pickle – was indeed – ground – then it wasn’t Lime rind, that left you know what. I wasn’t taking any chances.

The excessive Onion was the only negative in this Curry, however, I would certainly have it again, with two caveats next time.

Chicken Chasni

Oh no! Orange Soup! Well that’s the reaction this writer has to – Curry – of this nature. However, as much as Marg appreciates the wonder that is a Dry Karahi, she is just as happy to order a Creamy Curry, with – Chicken – too. Balance from Marg:

The sauce had a lovely sweet and sour flavour with a wee kick to distinguish it from a standard Creamy Curry. Rice would have been the better option.

Indeed, the surplus Masala was abandoned.

Mein Host approached the table as we were approaching the endgame to ask the customary question. As has become my custom of late, I gestured to the near empty plates. He understood.

Two satisfied customers.

Marg ordered an extra hot White Coffee (£2.50). The coffee and the accompanying mint were thoroughly enjoyed.

Excellent – said Marg.

The Bill

£33.85   Bier and Coffee, a Big Saturday night out.

The Aftermath

Lots of farewells as we left the near empty premises. It was difficult to tell if we had been recognised, three visits only. There shall be more, a pity the Renfrew Ferry doesn’t run later.

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Whitechapel – Needoo Grill – Worthy of further investigation

Posted on July 15, 2021 by Hector

It is some five years since Curryspondent Neil made Hector aware of Needoo Grill (95 New Street, Whitechapel, London E1 1HH England). That was on the day of my first Whitechapel Curry at Lahore Kebab House. Tayyabs, around the corner from Needoo, subsequently impressed whereas Lahore One London did not. After my fourth visit to Lahore Kebab House earlier in the week, it was definitely time to try somewhere else.

Another source has many disparaging comments about Needoo Grill, some suggesting people only come here when Tayyabs is queued out, others commenting on the excessive use of Oil in the Curry. The mention of – Dry Lamb – was enough to make me take note.

Today, I had Steve for company. Our group actually peaked at thirteen yesterday, only one chose to join Hector for Curry-Heute.

A somewhat circuitous route took us to Whitechapel, the aftermath of Monday’s downpour which was nothing compared to Rheinland-Pfalz where there was devastation. Needoo Grill is only a short walk from the the tube station.  We arrived at 13.30.

Two doors and two flights of stairs, Hector went left but was led to the right. The room to the left sounded busier, it was difficult to tell how many were there, magic mirrors.

Needoo Grill is a significant step up from a Curry Cafe, the young chaps serving were buzzing about, keeping themselves busy. The Menu came in an instant, three Dips followed shortly. No – Dry Lamb. We both resorted to type: Karahi Gosht (£9.95) for Hector, Lamb Madras (£9.95) for Steve.

We both chose a Lahore Tandoori Paratha (£3.20) as the accompaniment. Sparkling Water was not available, I asked for a jug of tap water, request declined. Instead, a large bottle of Still Water was ordered. Ice aplenty followed.

I declined the offer of Poppadoms (£0.99) as is my norm. Steve decided he wanted two. In the end, he ate one. Despite one Dip looking particularly fierce, I resisted all temptation, true to myself.

When the waiter brought the Curry, he couldn’t tell them apart, hopefully, I have them the right way round. The Parathas were served in quarters, for once this did not annoy, they retained the appearance of being whole. Perhaps it is bits in a basket that really disturbs the Hector. Wholemeal, flaky, layered, soft, and signs of – the swirl – excellent Paratha.

Karahi Gosht

Coriander topped a distinctly authentic, blended Masala. The Oily sheen was forming, but not in any negative way. Karahi has Oil, this was in no way excessive. The Meat count was easily into double figures, large pieces too. This was the – Small – portion, for £16.95 one could have gone – Large. That would be a challenge.

The Spice Level was well pitched, no discussion about strength had been mentioned, this more than satisfied. Another caveat which features in the majority of Curry-Heute Blogs was never raised, I trusted this venue to get to right, no – nasty green mush – was present. A single Bay Leaf was the only solid encountered apart from the Lamb. The Seasoning was below the Hector idyll, however, this Karahi was still full of Flavour. This took me back in time, the old fashioned, Earthy tastes of years gone by, traditional, in other words. The Lamb was beautifully soft, the distinctive taste of the Lamb came across. There was the sense that this Karahi had been brewing for days. Very good, but lacking the – wow – was my observation.

A new waiter must have come on duty. He acknowledged our presence, appreciating chaps out for their – fix.

All was going well then Hector hit the wall. Eating this quantity of food so early in the day is not Hector’s style. The Lamb was far from chewy yet mastication was approaching the n’th term for every piece of Meat. It became clear that I had reached my limit, the man who can devour the half kilo was beaten. The new chap observed my struggle, another waiter asked if I wished it packed for Takeaway.

I should have had the Karahi Fish Masala! Even then, I suspect the quantity would have beaten me. Fish Karahi? Next time. Fish in this Masala could be outstanding. Then there’s the Methi Lamb (£9.95). I’ll definitely be back, Needoo should become my next Whitechapel project.

Meanwhile, across the table…

Lamb Madras

A slightly lighter shade of brown, and perhaps less Oil were the distinguishing features. Had I not been in my unusual predicament I would have asked for a dip of the Masala to verify a difference. Steve assured me early on that he found the Seasoning to be – OK – but then his tolerance is well below mine. Steve’s conclusion:

Meat was very tender, spicy enough. Tomato flavour, very good, but – he agreed it lacked the – wow!

The Bill

£31.53        The £3.25 for the bottle of water was ridiculous.

The Aftermath

The army of staff bade us farewell. The service, in terms of attention, was a standout feature of the visit.

 

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Whitechapel – Lahore Kebab House – Once upon a time

Posted on July 13, 2021 by Hector

Four of us dining at Lahore Kebab House (2-10 Umberston St., Whitechapel, London, E1 1PY, England), a first. Jonathan and Lady Maggie joined Lord Clive and Hector on the trek to Whitechapel, not made easy by disrupted Underground services. Bus 15, never again.

We arrived at 13.30, the waiter acknowledged us in a manner suggesting recognition, Clive and I were here a few weeks ago. Then the Fish Curry (£9.75) was not available, hopefully today.

There had to be Seekh Kebab (£1.50). In northern parts, one might expect two for this price, in that London, this is the unit price. We were all having Seekh Kebab, Clive and Jonathan declared two each. To this, Maggie added a Chicken Samosa (£1.75), when will she learn? I did announce to all assembled that there is a well known and reliable Curry Blog which describes every time Maggie has failed to finish her Main Course due to overindulging in Starters. She suggested that the Samosas might become Takeaway.

Lahore Kebab House was decidedly more quiet than it was on our last (Sunday) visit. Our waiter was patient and actually suggested that the Masala Fish (£9.00) Starter, served in foil, might be a better option. Hector was having Fish Curry with Plain Rice (£4.25) to accompany. Maggie would have the same. Is this the most expensive Rice in a Curry Cafe in the UK?

As Maggie was about to recite the list of options to Clive, I suggested we cut to the chase – there must be a Dhansak. Actually, it’s not on the Menu, however, our waiter offered this without a blink of the eye. Lamb Dhansak (£9.75) was noted, along with a Keema Naan (£4.00). It came as no surprise when Jonathan ordered Keema Curry (£9.75) and a Tandoori Roti (£2.50). How can a Roti cost more than a Naan?

A Salad and Raita were presented. If there had only been two of use would we have received the same quantity? I believe so. Anyway, we were not here for Salad.

The Seekh Kebab were brought on a single platter, guess who now wished he had ordered two?

Seekh Kebab

That these have become – must have – is down to them being so well cooked. Moist and tasty, with a Spicy Blast, excellent.

Chicken Samosa

Evidently, I saw this fine pastry, whatever happened to it, I know not.

No sooner had we finished our Starters when the Mains began arriving, all the more reason to limit the quantity of Starters.

The Rice was piled high on the plate, Maggie thought this was to share until a second plate arrived. Lesson learned, a portion each is probably not required. The Roti was large, puffy even, one would certainly do the job.

The Keema Naan looked like a meal in itself. Large, very well stuffed, almost a winner but not in the World of Curry-Heute. The filling was a slab of Pink Meat, the sadly familiar – Donner-like – which Hector eschews. Clive was not put off, he devoured it in his customary way, after he had finished his Curry.

Fish Curry

When Clive ordered this back in May 2019, I described the Fish Curry as – The Best Fish Curry I have ever seen. I do differentiate between Curry and Karahi, expectations are different. Today’s offering was clearly not in the same class, too much Shorva, the hint of – Yoghurt – not there. It gets worse.

As seen on my visits to date, no other Curry has copious strips of Onions, so why this one? Additionally, there were two pieces of the offending – green mush – present. By the time I had decanted, I was not left with the Curry I had hoped for. At least I had Rice, Bread would have been a disaster.

The Spice Level was decent, the Seasoning seemed low which always puzzles in a Fish Curry. Of course it could have been a freshwater Fish. A big blast of Aniseed took me by surprise. Fortunately, as I ate so the Spice, Seasoning, and Fish Flavour steadily built, first impressions were wrong, taste wise. This was a good Fish Curry, but not that – something special – I had hoped for.

Maggie praised the Rice for not being sticky between wipes of her nose. She was having a different experience:

Fish had lots of sauce, bit of a kick, made my nose run. Lots of Fish, I’m sure there was coriander, cinnamon, in there, couldn’t taste them, too hot … gheeie.

Maggie’s leftover Shorva came my way, to mop up the remaining Rice. Yes, share a Rice portion.

Keema Curry

This was nothing like the Keema Curry which Clive enjoyed here six weeks ago. As with the Fish Curry, there was way to much Masala, an Oily Shorva at that. OK, if one is being consistent, then a Curry will be wetter than a Karahi, in the better establishments. However, a wet Keema always gets marked down.

A bit more sauce and oil than I would have expected – began Jonathan – with a rich flavour and a good, hot after-taste.

Lamb Dhansak

What an incredible amount of Meat! Once again, the Masala was in the same style as the Curry above, where were the Lentils? A Dhansak must surely have a thicker Masala? As Clive started eating so he suggested that the Lamb tasted as if the preparation had started days ago. Twenty plus – was his Meat count, surely a record for a standard portion? It sounded as though he had the most impressive Curry served to our table.

Overall, excellent – remarked Clive – but not many lentils were harmed in the making of this Dhansak. Lots of Lamb, Keema Naan was excellent, full of Keema.

The Bill

£63.25   We were asked for cash, the restaurant was running short. Between us, we managed it, just.

Only £1.00 was charged for the Tandoori Roti which Jonathan remarked he had seen three prices for on the various menus. The Dhansak was also listed as a Karahi. What did Clive receive?

The Aftermath

Our departure was low key. Another long bus journey took us to Hackney Wick. En route, I decided to give Curryspondent Neil’s other Whitechapel suggestion when I return to the city on Thursday. Watch out for a review of – Needoo Grill.

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Brighton – Curry Leaf Cafe – Brighton Lanes

Posted on July 12, 2021 by Hector

When Hector arrived in Crawley this morning, he found Lord Clive studying possible places at which to pass the time on Wednesday when we’ll be mob handed, and before the outrageously wonderful UnBarred Brewery opens at 16.00. Curry Leaf Cafe – Brighton Lanes (60 Ship St., Brighton BN1 1AE England) popped up on his search, Craft Bier and Curry at the same venue? This had to be explored.

With Jonathan also in Crawley this week, the three of us headed down to the coast. Curry Leaf Cafe was due to close for a two hour break at 15.00, we entered at 14.30, hopefully at least a Starter might be offered. Three pints of Burning Sky’s Session IPA, Arise, at a modest 4.4%, were ordered whilst we studied the Lunch Menu. Does this mean there’s a Main Menu?

*

*

Goan Pork Ribs (£6.95) appeared to fit the bill. We were after a snack, not a main meal. The waitress, who struggled with two Scottish dialects, advised that the portion was small. This puzzled, Pork is the cheapest of Meat. We were invited to consider the Thali Platters.

Thali is something I tend to dismiss, usually I am after my – dinner. This afternoon, a glorified – snack – would suit us perfectly. Keeping things light, I chose the Aloo Gobi Masala (£11.95) whilst Clive and Jonathan both went for Lamb Rogan Josh (£13.95).

I had time to take in the surroundings, one wonders as to the make up of the clientele. How many come for drinks, how many for food? That only two of the four named Craft Beers on the menu were available today may have frustrated some.

When the waitress brought the first of the metal Thali trays, she announced that Chef had made an error, she was temporarily a Lamb short. There was a portion of  Chicken Makhani however, and so she placed this on the table for us to share. Nice touch.

Thali – Aloo Gobi Masala

Where do you start?

Some bits were hot, others not, so having identified what was what, eat the warm stuff first.

There were three pieces of Vegetable Pakora and plenty of Dips to choose from. The Pakora seemed twice fried but was very tasty. I then dipped a piece of Poppadom into the Dip which was not listed on the Menu – a puréed Lime Pickle. This was astonishing. I looked over to Jonathan to establish if he had got there yet, oh yes. If the Aloo Gobi was bland, this would certainly liven it up. Having now reached the Naan, I tried some of the Panchratna Dal. I was glad to find it warm with an Earthy Flavour. This was another plus.

Eating directly from the tray still felt a bit strange yet I’ll happily eat from a karahi. The so-called Biriyani Rice was there, a decent portion for what I was still approaching as a – snack. The Aloo Jeera also had Peas and given the main part of my Thali was the Potato-Cauliflower, I decided that combining these might be the way forward. Decisions.

The Aloo Gobi was topped with what I took to be fresh Curry Leaves. Green Beans were also a listed ingredient, so quite a Vegetable Curry. With plenty of solids packed into what was a Tapas metal bowl, the blended Masala would not be excessive.

The Spice was at a decent level, the Seasoning was – low – however, being my first Curry since the – assalt – (sic) at Karahi Palace two days ago, nothing was going to register. The Texture of the three vegetables was spot on, the Cauliflower in particular, retained a bit of crunch, it’s too easy to serve pulp here. The encounter with a Clove was another positive, even more Flavour. With the extra Potato and some of the Daal, the reality was dawning, my meal was far from being a snack.

Jonathan had started on the Chicken Makhani, again positive sounds from across the table. I took a piece of the Chicken and minimal Creamy Masala, Sweeter, as expected. The Texture of the Chicken was excellent, Marg, who loves Creamy Curry, would have appreciated this.

Thali – Lamb Rogan Josh

At least six pieces of Meat are visible in the photo, in the end, Jonathan counted nine, so this was far from being – Tapas. The blended Masala again looked to be a worthy accompaniment. Both chaps thoroughly enjoyed their selection. It looks as though I’ll have to try the Rogan Josh next time.

The diversity, of Textures and Flavours, plus the – shock – of the Lime Pickle, this was simply an outstanding array of Dishes, Dips and Bread. Well done, Clive, for discovering this place.

The Bill

£58.25    A disgraceful £19.50 spent on Bier, and we came for a – snack.

The Aftermath

Needless to say, it was well after the 15.00 closing time when we departed. That we were not rushed was appreciated. The Calling Card was given, was its purpose understood?

I note there is another branch in Brighton at Kemptown, note, is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

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Glasgow – Karahi Palace – It’s Coming On

Posted on July 10, 2021 by Hector

Spending a July Saturday afternoon in Glasgow still feels strange. Crossing the Clyde felt even stranger, the new banking complex is certainly – coming on. How many more quiet visits will there be to Karahi Palace (51-53 Nelson Street, Tradeston, Glasgow, G5 8DZ) before the hordes discover this humble venue?

Arriving at 14.00, a hungry Hector felt a Chilli and Coriander Naan was due for a change. Karahi Lamb (£9.00) remains the constant, a return to Punjabi Fayre after the less than impressive experiences earlier in the week on the Ayrshire Coast.

A couple of neds were in Hector’s preferred spot, waiting for Takeaway, this meant the table at the door for Hector. For once the open door permitted fresh air and not the midwinter draught.

The new chap took the Order. Salad and Sauce were offered, declined, a jug of Water secured. Chef Rashid set about working his magic.

Neds? Well that’s how I shall describe yoofs (sic) who spill the contents of their Kebap on the floor, then scoop them up and walk on as if this was the norm.

Ayaz, Mein Host invited me to take my usual table, Hector was settled. Two couples entered, sat at the window table and consulted the Menu. Moments later they departed. I had to ask the waiter why they had just walked out of one of Glasgow’s finest Curry Houses. Vegetarians, they were at the wrong movie.

The Wrong Naan

I could have sent it back, but why erode the margins of profit for a business at this difficult time? The Naan was dripping in Butter, there was no sign of the Chillies. Hector had been give the more common Garlic & Coriander Naan. With perforations, it had been prevented from rising in the centre. Knowing that I would manage about half, the puffy, well fired rim, would become my area of enjoyment.

Karahi Lamb

Ah, the Toppings! It’s easy to take these for granted, but when there’s no – foliage – one is missing out on that which gives a Karahi that extra something. Ginger Strips, Coriander, and Green Chillies sliced lengthwise, Mmmmm.

The Meat was piled high, there’s no need to count, the portion is always substantial. I dug through the Thick Masala Mash to find the Oil which had collected on the base of the karahi. The first dip of Naan was a fine example of the self-fulfilling prophecy. Garlic, the Garlic from the Naan dominated, it distorted the anticipated Flavours, so it goes. This is why I believe that Garlic Naan is best avoided, unless, this is the Flavour one seeks. At Karahi Palace there is so much more, by carefully selecting my Bread, I got back on course. Rashid knows I like – extra Seasoning – today was a test, this Karahi was high on the Erlangen Scale. For those who need a prompt to understand this reference, click on this link.

Sucky Bones, and so, so Tender Meat, joy of joys, once more. How I have enjoyed this on so many visits, for further confirmation read here, here, and here.

The Bill

£12.00   It looks as though there has been a price increase.

The Aftermath

You’re on your own today – observed the waiter.

He’s new, he’ll become used to it.

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Girvan – Auld Acquaintance – Not to be forgotten

Posted on July 6, 2021 by Hector

Occasionally one comes across a venue which is not a Curry House, but does sell Curry, and something says it has to be investigated. Such is Auld Acquaintance (9 Dalrymple St., Girvan Ayrshire KA26 9EU) our first port of call for a late lunch when we arrived in Girvan on Sunday afternoon.

If proof was ever required that Hector does eat multi-national food, then the Croque Monsieur enjoyed on Sunday may go some way towards this. One helluva mass of Cheese and Ham was present.

Meanwhile, Marg had a rather tasty Greek Salad. Despite the Fetta being grated, instead of the preferred – slabs, this went down very well. If the Salad which accompanied the Croque Monsieur was anything to go by, Marg’s choice must have been wonderful. Mein Host, and Chef, Premil, came out from the kitchen to check all was well. His partner, Delphina, works front of house, both are great personalities.

Auld Acquaintance, a Restaurant by name, a Cafe by décor, has a World Menu. My decision to come this evening was to sample the Curry as Delphina predicted when we departed on Sunday. Marg need not have Curry, her choice.

A Curry features as the – Daily Special, tonight – Chicken Dhansak. You can’t win them all. The Menu has – Authentic Curry (Veg from) £10.99. Fish, Beef and Pork are an extra £2.50, £3.00 and £2.00 respectively. On telling Delphina that I preferred to avoid – Chicken – she went through to the kitchen and returned with – Kofta – as an additional alternative. Kofta – was recorded as – Malai Kofta – also – Spicy. Marg chose Penne Carbonara, however she was not about to abandon the food of the Indian Subcontinent. When Vegetable Samosas were mentioned, a portion of four was ordered to start. We were advised that they would be – small.

The four Samosas were served with an interesting Yoghurt Dip and a salad garnish. Piping hot, they packed a Spicy punch,. Potato featured prominently, the Pastry was fresh and flaky, definitely moreish.

No sooner had we finished the Samosas when Delphina brought out the Curry Ensemble.

Kofta Curry Ensemble

This was quite a spread, two brown, puffy Flatbreads, a Yoghurt Dip, Mango Chutney, a Poppadom, and a karahi containing the Kofta in a sound looking Masala. As I took stock of what lay before me, and planned my attack, Prenil came out with a Soupçon of Lamb Liver Pate.

I decanted the Rice which featured Raisins. For once, this was not Basmati. The portion was sensible.

I counted six Kofta as I arranged them on the Rice, each would be halved. With all the Bits, this would be quite a meal.

The first dip of Bread into the Masala was a shocker. What on Earth was this? Last night at Yasmin’s across the road, I struggled to sense any Flavour. Tonight it was going to be a matter of coming to terms with what I was eating. This was unlike anything I have ever encountered. Beyond – Earthy, was it the Bread or the Masala? I dipped the Bread in the Yoghurt, all was well, the Bread was sound.

On tackling the Kofta, the same strange Spice hit again, plus a Cheesy taste, not Foostie, surely? Delphina had said – Malai. That implied – Vegetable, these Kofta were made from finely ground Meat. The palate adjusted, I continued, alternating between Kofta and Bread-Masala. Small pieces of the dreaded Red Peppers were present, these were set aside. I hadn’t declared my aversion, it was a case of wait and see what comes. It was time to introduce the Liver Pate, something familiar.

Prenil came out and asked if this was the best Curry I have ever tasted. Apparently nine out of ten people have said thus. Hector, sadly, is one who says otherwise.

What was I tasting? I began a process of elimination. Cinnamon, absolutely not, definitely a Spice, not a Herb, so that ruled out Methi/Coriander. Not – Aniseed, Clove, Cumin (Seed), Tamarind, the big hitters. What’s left? Powdered – Coriander and Cumin? I must pair these when I get home and taste that combination. Or, is it possible there’s a pungent  Spice which Hector does not know of?

I cannot say I could ever rave about this Curry, however, it was most certainly a – taste experience. Better than – bland – I suppose.

It took me an age to work my way through all this. Marg had long finished her authentic looking Carbonara, so ordered a Coffee with Shortbread, whilst I had Poppadom and Mango Chutney for – Dessert.

The Bill

£40.42   This was relayed verbally, and so I can give no breakdown.

The Aftermath

We did establish that our hosts are originally from Bombay and worked in London before coming to Scotland. How does one end up in Girvan?

Girvan is the quietest town I have visited in years.

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Girvan – Yasmin’s Fine Indian Cuisine – A Staycation Curry

Posted on July 5, 2021 by Hector

Marg and Hector are in Girvan for a few days – Staycation-2021. In this west coast seaside town, en-suite accommodation was available at a sensible price for our chosen dates. Why do so many Scottish B&Bs think a shared bathroom is acceptable in this century?

Dalrymple Street is where Curry is found in Girvan, actually, outwith this main shopping street there’s not much of anything. Yasmin’s Fine Indian Cuisine (10 Dalrymple St., Girvan, Ayrshire KA26 9AE) is the only dedicated Curry House with sitting in. Closed on a Tuesday, it was tonight or never.

I had booked a table for 19.00, and so Mein Host greeted us by name throughout our visit. A young waitress took our Drinks order, a litre bottle of Sparkling Water was brought. With no Drinks Menu, there was no clue as to the cost.

Marg decided she was having Poppadoms (£1.50). Having photographed the Menu posted in the window yesterday, I had narrowed my choices to three possibilities, each in the – Hot Dishes – section: Chilli Bhoona, Lahori Masala, and the unusually titled Cobra.

There is a £1.50 surcharge on the quoted £10.95 for Lamb, therefore at £12.45, quite pricey for a Restaurant in the provinces. Of course, a substantial portion may justify this. Marg would choose from the – Medium Dishes – Lamb Lassani (£12.45). To accompany, Mushroom Rice (£3.75) and a Plain Paratha (£2.95).

*

The young waitress returned to take the Order.

I listed my choices and my reasoning:

I do not wish to see Peppers in my Curry.

I asked which had the most Flavour. The waitress admitted that she had no personal knowledge of any of the Dishes, but most people went for Cobra. She confirmed that Cobra would be – Spicy – but wouldn’t all the Dishes in this section be so? Having restated that my interest was more about – Flavour – I continued:

Should I phone a friend, ask the audience?

Why at this point did she not defer to someone in the Restaurant who could answer?

Cobra it would be for Hector, and the lady at the adjacent table assured Marg that Lassani was a good choice.

Marg then added her request for Poppadoms and Mango Chutney.

How many? – was the reply. Unbelievably, at Yasmin’s, like 7 Spices Balti (Sheffield) – Poppadoms – on the Menu is actually – the singular. Marg persevered despite knowing that this goes against everything that – The Curry-Heute Campaign – stands for.

No Peppers – was noted for both Main Courses.

The solitary Poppadom was accompanied by a surprisingly large bowl of Mango Chutney. Marg took care of the Poppadom, OK, I had a nibble with some Chutney. I suggested that rather than waste the remaining Chutney, we hold on to it, just in case.

The adjacent couple were finishing their glasses of wine at the end of their meal. Two female strangers let loose, after some ten minutes it became possible that xmas cards might well be exchanged.

The Rice arrived with the Curry. Fresh Mushrooms pleased, there was enough to share, just. There was an apology for the relatively late arrival of the Paratha. The Wholemeal Paratha had the – spiral – and was soft and flaky. A good choice, and somehow we managed to finish it.

Lamb Cobra

The half, large Green Chilli was the differentiating feature to distinguish our choices.

The redness struck us both, this cannot be natural. The Masala was suitably viscous, so not a Soupy Curry then. The Spice Level was decent, the extra Chilli would enhance this as and when required. Where was the Seasoning? I always congratulate Chefs whom I consider to be – brave. The Chef at Yasmin’s most certainly was not. As a consequence, the Flavours of the Spices simply did not come across, just their heat.

Marg was ahead of me in complimenting the Meat, it was delightfully Tender. The Meat count was into double figures, each piece was a good size, so the price felt justified.

Hector decided to go down the Chasni road and took some of the leftover Mango Chutney. The first sample of this new mix confirmed that Hector’s taste-buds were still working. Sweeter, yes, but definitely more Flavoursome than that which had been presented. A pity the rules of Curry-Heute did not permit me to add – Salt!

Lamb Lassani

No Toppings, one cannot therefore take – foliage – for granted. Having sampled a Soupçon of the Masala, it was difficult to say how it differed from the Cobra other than having less of a – kick. Again, in terms of Flavour, nothing significant was coming across. Ginger Strips and Coriander Leaves could have done a lot for this Curry. Marg’s verdict:

Dark red looking, very tender lamb and a rich flavoured sauce. (really?)

I enjoyed the Mushroom Rice for a change and half of the Paratha.

Mein Host came over as we neared the end – How is your meal?

I’ll tell you at the end, for reasons I’ll explain later – was my response.

Undaunted, he sat at the adjacent table and engaged us in conversation. Marg’s earlier conversation had established that significant travel was (once upon a time) involved in him getting to Girvan each day. All is well now. He confirmed that Yasmin’s has been in existence for some five years. Previously he worked at a Curry House in Newton Stewart.

We cleared our plates: every grain of Rice, crumb of Paratha, karahi wiped clean. This confirms that there was absolutely nothing wrong with the food served here this evening, but we were back in the land of Mainstream Curry. One always hopes to discover something special, surprising, not this evening.

The Bill

£39.60 As it was not itemised, I cannot confirm the prices of the Sparkling Water or Mango Chutney.

The Aftermath

It was a different chap who cleared the table. With Calling Card at the ready, I waited for the opperchancity to engage Mein Host. Unfortunately, he disappeared out the door with a large Takeaway, a delivery. The Calling Card was left, but this was not the end.

An hour or so later, we were heading back to the venue which may well be regarded as our – Local. Mein Host came out of Yasmin’s with another delivery and drove off, but only for a few metres. On spotting us he pulled over, opened the car door and thanked us for our business.

Now that was a – special – moment. There’s more!

Breaking News!

Angela announced this evening that as of Wednesday, doubly vaccinated citizens of the UK can enter Deutschland without quarantine.

Can we come back?

Menu extracts

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Glasgow – Madras Cafe – Sea Bass Molillee

Posted on July 2, 2021 by Hector

Madras Cafe (82 Howard St., Glasgow G1 4EE) is the third Curry House to occupy this locus. Mama’s Rasoi, a favourite venue of my late Mother, became Dawaat back in 2014, it didn’t last. Madras Cafe appeared last year, due to all the restrictions of Lockdown it has taken Hector a year to get here.

Hector took refuge from the impending rain storm just after 13.30. A family of four and a solo diner were in situ, the latter with a spacious window seat. Hector was given a smaller table at the head of the room, from there, all could be observed. Madras Cafe is very much an – Indian Restaurant – as the clientele confirmed. I watched the family get stuck into Dozas after they had finished their Mains.

The young waiter brought the Menu complete with lunchtime (£6.50) and pre-theatre (£9.95) options. The Lunch Menu clearly says Monday to Friday, so maybe a change of policy? Having studied the online Menu, – something in Fish – is what I had in mind. Soupy Curry is typical of that served here under the previous incarnations, if I can tolerate this at Banana Leaf then why not here? The abundance of – Peppers and Chicken – in many of the Meat alternatives limited the choice. Lamb Bhuna (£10.95) and Lamb Rogan Josh (£11.95) could hopefully avoid the – dreaded Ballast.

The young waiter had already supplied a litre bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.75) when I started my spiel. He deferred to his senior who brought the pad.

I’m trying to avoid both Capsicum and Chicken.

The above two Lamb Dishes were mentioned, so no flexibility then. I almost asked if Lamb Chettinad was possible, however, he led me to the Sea Bass Molillee (£15.00).

How thick is the sauce? – I had to ask, and I couldn’t bring myself to say – Masala.

I was assured it was – quite rich – and so took the plunge. Fried Rice with Jeera (£3.20) would accompany.

A Curry with – Coconut Milk – not the Hector norm. Still, I was happy to end up here, what could possibly follow Waris’ (Deira Lahore) wonderful Lahori creation midweek?

Three more diners entered. I heard them ask for a – Drinks Menu – but could not make out the response, they took soft drinks in the end. The Bar has an array of bottled spirits, and presumably liqueurs. There are no Bier taps.

I became aware of the time passing, at least I was not being soaked as were the occasional passers by. Madras Cafe is located behind the St. Enoch’s Centre, an area of limited footfall despite being metres from the riverside. The lack of activity along the banks of the River Clyde in the city centre still puzzles. Why is nothing happening here?

It was 14.15 when the Order arrived.

That looks good – was my reaction as the Curry was placed on the table.

The Jeera Rice portion was just enough, and certainly not excessive. I knew I should be able to manage this. I could not see much on the way of Cumin Seeds.

Sea Bass Molillee

The platter seemed huge, and the Fish occupied most of it. The Sea Bass may been deliberately broken into four pieces. As I carefully decanted the bits, so I became fully aware of just how much Fish was here. It is always difficult to judge the actual quantity of the Flaked Fish as served in a typical Bradford Fish Karahi. As I started breaking up the quarters, I could tell that this was going to be a lot of eating.

The yellow, pepper-speckled, creamy, Masala was not excessive, and the viscosity impressed. This was not a Soupy Curry, the ratio of – Meat to Masala – was favourable. Green Beans and bits of something – red – were immediately prominent. Tomato, I deduced eventually, not Carrots, and not …

The Spice Level was moderate initially, but built. When I bit into a supposedly  Green Bean and got a huge – kick – I realised some were Green Chillies. No problems with the Spice Level then, and for some I would suggest – take care! There was no sense of the taste of Coconut in the Masala. Not that I mind Coconut, but it does lead to Sweet Curry, this was not. I would upgrade the waiter’s – quite rich – to – seriously rich. This is not the style of Curry that Hector would normally order. Nor did the Masala have the South Indian Smokey Flavour that I have come to associate with Banana Leaf. It was clear that Marg would love this.

Sea Bass is not something I encounter often. This piece of Fish was cooked to perfection and far from the rubbery nonsense that too many venues dish out. The Flavour of the Fish was apparent and it retained a distinct sense of moistness throughout the period of eating.

One thing was missing, where was the Cumin blast from the Rice?

It took fully twenty five minutes to eat this Curry. The young waiter, who had witnessed my photographing the Menu and all thereafter, came over to ask if I was enjoying the food. I gestured to my almost empty plate.

I hope you give us a good review – I believe I heard though his face mask. Time to give the Calling Card, I saw it being taken to the hatch at the kitchen.

Suddenly, there was a blast of Cumin. One of the few seeds present had dislodged itself from wherever. I could have had more of this.

I asked for – The Bill – instead, a chap resplendent in Chef’s uniform stood beside me, beaming, this was Shabu, Mein Host. He confirmed their opening during Lockdown had been a far from ideal time to launch a new business. As I talked Shabu through the Curry-Heute website on the still reliable Oppo, he realised that he knew me from his time at KoolBa. I would imagine this may have been from the short-lived Union Street branch, Candleriggs survives. Shabu showed me his Recipe Book, of which he is clearly proud. I assured him that I have more than enough Curry Recipe Books. Why do I make so few Dishes from them?

The Bill

£15.57 This was after a 30% discount. Thanks very much. Once again, being Hector has its privileges, occasionally.

The Aftermath

There was the promise of a return visit – My wife will love the Sea Bass Molillee.  Another reason is to try the rare – Malabar Paratha – the elusive white Paratha which Hector adores.

Some updates:

Banana Leaf, the well established South Indian Curry Cafe is temporarily closed. Phoning them last week, I was told that they are closed for two weeks and are moving premises. To where, their spokesman did not say.

On the journey home I noticed that Pedlar and Spice is no more.

Madras Cafe – Menu extracts

 

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Glasgow – Deira Lahore – Fish Karahi, a la Waris

Posted on June 30, 2021 by Hector

Deira Lahore (641 Cathcart Road, Crosshill, Glasgow G42 8AE) is a Takeaway, however, for those who insist, eating in can be accommodated, just. The attraction of Deira Lahore is Maestro Chef – Waris, after years of floating around Southside Curry venues, he has made Deira Lahore his own.

Two Saturdays back, Hector popped in to check all was well. It was agreed that I would come and dine. Having studied the Menu, Fish Karahi (£6.99) had to be. Securing an authentic – Desi/Apna – Fish Karahi in Glasgow that has the – Wow! – factor has been an ongoing mission for many a year. I kept the Order simple, Fish Karahi for two, a Chapatti (£0.80) and a Paratha (£1.99).

I’m sure you will surprise us with something extra – concluded our exchange of text messages. The meal was set for today at 15.00, Marg would accompany. Marg had never met Waris, she missed out on the early encounters at Lasani Grill way back in 2014.

We timed our arrival to perfection, introductions made, we squeezed into our places at the second of the two tables. Somehow, five years have passed since I last sat in this spot.

Please don’t overfeed us – was a serious plea – we need to eat what we have ordered.

Waris told us that as well as the Fish Karahi he had also prepared Lamb Karahi. Knowing that not to sample this would be out of order, it was a greed that a – small portion – would accompany the Fish.

A simple Salad was presented, which I then realised was actually an elaborate plate of Spiced Onions. Red and White Onions had been infused with Mango Chutney, something different. Marg likes her Mango Chutney, this would go down well. The plate of Mixed Starters which followed was pitched well in terms of quantity.

Mixed Starters

Four pieces of Vegetable Pakora, Hector secured one. When Marg finds freshly made Pakora, she enthuses. This was much to her liking. Most of the Chicken Seekh Kebab came my way.

The taste of the Middle East – was noted, Cumin possibly the standout Spice. A fine Seekh Kebab, I was amused by the hole left by the square rod which had been used as the skewer.

I thought the flat pieces were Aubergine, I made the same mistake on my last visit. Nope, Potato Pakora, or – Fritters – as they have been served in Scottish Fish & Chip Shops for decades. This was the surprise element of what lay before me. Hot, freshly made, and with a definite – kick.

The Hot Red Sauce complemented all of the above. Marg remarked on the fact that it had been heated. Why pour a cold sauce over hot food?

Hector washed this down with a can of Scotland’s very own Irn Bru. Her Majesty the Queen visited the Barr’s factory in Cumbernauld two days ago, excellent publicity. This is also where Mango Rubicon is produced, Hector’s usual alternative to Sparkling Water.

After a suitable break, the Bread arrived. Two large Chapattis, and a Paratha beneath. Marg would manage one Chapatti, I told Waris that I rarely finish a Paratha.

The Swirl was evident, the layering too. Soft, buttery, now imagine this having been prepared with white flour instead of wholemeal. This Paratha was a fine example of the genre.

Fish Karahi

Topped with copious pieces of large sliced Green Chillies and Coriander Leaves, this was unlike anything ever seen before. Two Salmon Steaks were smothered in the darkest of Tomato-rich Masalas. I did ask Waris if it was all Tomato, Onions were in there too. My wife’s recipe – he admitted.

The first dip of Paratha into the Masala was the – Wow! – moment. One could taste the Fish here, this was truly remarkable. The Spice and Seasoning were not in one’s face, enough, perfect for Marg. How many times have I described my disappointment on being served a Fish Curry/Karahi where there is no sense of the Fish being present at all? OK, freshwater Fish ain’t naturally seasoned, Salmon, works so well in a Curry, and is filling. Beware, gram for gram,  it’s much more filling than Meat.

It looked as though the Spiced Salmon had been baked in the Masala, everything was therefore in harmony. Marg was loving this, a unique experience, nobody has ever served a Fish Karahi like this anywhere else.

Marg somehow had no bones, Hector had the larger piece of Fish, and therefore the backbone had to be removed. This Fish was beautiful in its own right, I forgot I had Paratha too. Paratha, Masala, Masala Fish, this is a Deira Lahore experience I thoroughly recommend.

Marg’s verdict:

I loved the Starters, especially the Vegetable Pakora which went well with the onion based salad. However, the Salmon Steak (Fish Karahi) was the highlight of the meal, succulent meat with a rich and earthy sauce.

It was a lovely expereince meeting Waris.

Lamb Karahi

Ginger Strips had been added to the Toppings. The Masala appeared identical to that which had smothered the Salmon. The Lamb was on-the-bone, and so the portion was not excessive, especially when Marg announced that she would only have a Soupçon. For Hector, this would be a case of eat slowly, enjoy.

When I visit Indian Mango (München), their Fisch Chettinad is always foremost in my mind, however, sometimes the Lamm Chettinad has more Flavour. In recent times I have ordered both, in that way, the fear of missing out is avoided.

Today was an equivalent moment. The Minimal Masala clearly would not have the pronounced Fish Flavour, so it suffered by comparison. To have ordered this on its own would have led to an entirely different review.

A significant blast of Cloves gave this Masala its own identity. Something black and solid went into my mouth I took it to be a Black Cardamom and so was expecting something – smokey, but Aniseed was being registered. There was Flavour here.

The Meat varied in quality. Some pieces were delightfully Soft, others took quite a bit of chewing. The bones were discarded, Lamb and Fish bones on the same plate, another unique experience.

Conversation with Waris continued intermittently, Takeaway customers were served, some clearly taken aback to see diners in situ.

A photo of Waris and his son appears somewhere in these pages, Waris told me he is no longer the tallest member of his family. Marg told Waris that I do all the cooking at home, and recently became bored with everything turning out the same. Waris admitted that he too enjoys other’s cooking for him, what he makes turns out – in his style. It is this style which Curry-Heute hopefully highlights and will encourage others to try.

Lamb Karahi & Fish Karahi

The Bill

After a few minutes of insistence, there was a financial transaction, nowhere near what should have been. Thank you, Waris.

The Aftermath

I met the other Chef last time, today it was Ikram who posed alongside Waris.

Next time, Waris’ Namkeen Karahi, this is where it all began.

Two very satisfied customers walked back to the car on Allison Street. Today is Wednesday, I resisted going into Sheerin Palace for Takeaway – Kofta Anda. I shall dine in there, one day soon.

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